Trek to the beautiful Tungnath
Temple has always mesmerized me. I had been longing for my first encounter with
the snow and it couldn’t have come better than in the form of the trek to
Tungnath Temple and Chandrashila Peak. It didn’t take much time to decide upon
the itinerary as I was in Haridwar at the time of scheduling and my friend,
Ashish joined me from Mumbai after having an arduous journey in the air and on
the rail tracks.
Deoria Taal and Chaukhamba |
In the first phase, we explored
the enchantingly beautiful Deoria Lake. Words were not sufficient to describe
the beauty of this place. The mighty Chaukhamba peak with the fabulous Gangotri
Range of the Himalaya reflecting in the calm waters of the Deoria Taal was one
surreal experience. After spending a night at the Deoria Taal, we returned to
Saari village by noon. A sumptuous Pahadi Lunch of rice, vegetables and special
chutney filled our guts for our next project – Tungnath and Chandrashila!
For the uninitiated – Tungnath is
the highest Lord Shiva temple in the world situated at an altitude of 12073
feet (3680 m). It is also part of the Panch Kedar group of temples dedicated to
Lord Shiva. Chandrashila is the summit situated atop Tungnath at the height of
13000 feet.
Red hue of Buraansh, Chopta |
The trek to Tungnath though is
longer than Deoria Taal trek but it is not as arduous as the same. The well
constructed pavement makes it little easy in the initial phase as you pass
through the thickly forested area dotted with numerous trees of buraansh
(Rhododendron). We could see many people coming down as they were about to
finish their trek and myself and Ashish were the only souls who were climbing.
I didn’t check but many of them must have had a bewildered look in their eyes.
Bugyal on the trek to Tungnath |
The snow started to appear
prominently and vegetation was getting less dense. The air temperature shifted
from cool to cold. Frankly speaking, we were not so well equipped for the snow
trek and the change in the weather was making it worse. The weather in the
mountain is unpredictable. The clear weather by noon changed with dark clouds
gathering in the sky and we could see that it was raining heavily at a distance
on few hills. I was wearing a simple t-shirt, a pair of jeans and sweater as if
I was strolling on the Mall Road of Mussoorie. Ashish was wearing his all time
favourite UCLA jacket. All I could vouch for were my all weather shoes.
Snowy Trek, Tungnath |
The vegetation had now almost
vanished and we rested at the last full bloomed buraansh before we
proceeded. The pavement was lined by
snow though we were yet to see the glimpse of Tungnath temple.
All of a sudden
a mild hailstorm approached us. The tiny small ice pellets landed on the
exposed part of my hand giving me momentary numbness. I quickly wore the
sweater I was just tying around my waist.
In the meanwhile, we met a newly married couple who were returning to
base and generously offered their stick to navigate through the snow at the
top. Other two locals who were coming down warned us of the bad weather (which
we could see and experience).
Tungnath, village buried in snow! |
Not a single soul, Tungnath |
Tungnath and Parvati Temple, 12073 feet |
Honestly, the only thing which
looked divine in the vicinity was the Tungnath Temple otherwise the whole
village had an eerie look. We proceeded to the temple. The newly constructed
blue frame at the entrance has numerous bells hanging. I rang the biggest and
whoa…the echo was in the atmosphere for at least a minute. That was one amazing
experience with sound (Generally we attribute it to the BOSE sound systems! J) Ashish braved and
removed his shoes to enter the temple which had snow everywhere and I followed
the suit.
Tungnath is the most beautiful
temple I have ever seen. Probably absence of human beings took this experience
to different level. We could feel the cold surface but we were simply admiring
the temple and the surrounding beauty. Built in a typical Garhwali style, where
the smaller structure provides the entrance to the main sanctum sanctorum has a
striking similarity to the Kedarnath Temple, the main temple of the Panch Kedar
group. The doors of the temples (known as ‘kapaats’ locally) were closed and
are scheduled to open in the second week of May 2013. We said our prayers. We
took a while to sink in the peace and tranquility of the surrounding. However,
the fading light and the numbing peak started to give us the signal.
Evening glory on return, Tungnath |
Nothing as beautiful as Himalaya! |
Luck was on our side. We spotted
a movement up in the snow. A slightly bulky silhouette of a bird. It was joined
by a similar bird and both hid beyond a rock covered with snow. I was surprised
to find such a bird at this altitude. Then one of them took flight right in
front of us and went on another side towards valley. From that height we could
see the span of the fluorescent blue wings and the brown tail. We were amazed
by the beauty of that bird which looked like peacock. We were also taken aback
by its ability to fly steadily looking at the bulky size. We had found the
state bird of Uttarakhand, The Himalayan Monal. Similar to the peacock family,
this pheasant is found only at an altitude above 7000 feet and is endearingly
beautiful.
Himalayan Mouse nibbling in the snow! |
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